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Favour Please :D (Cooling) 
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saspro wrote:
Brad, PM me what you need (or post it in the wanted thread).
I've got the following for sale.

D5 pump
1/2" tubing
Coolant
Swiftech GT block
Full set of Asus blocks (NB, SB & VRMS)
Barbs
Clips etc


Sas u [LIFTED] genius you mayte :D:D:D *sorry for my sweedish *:P I think its just my luck i have a P5K3 Deluxe so the NB SB cooler could come in very usefull indeed :P

I think i will take that offer up... :P

Just 1 question does the pump go internal or exteral of the case?


Cheers mayte u been a genious :arrow: :mrgreen:

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Fri Oct 02, 2009 2:24 pm
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Pumps are internal.

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Fri Oct 02, 2009 3:30 pm
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Hi, No offence but you seem to know very little about water cooling, so may I ask why you want it.
To run cooler, for overclocking or just to look "cool" knowing your needs would give people a better idea on what kit is the best for your rig.


Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:06 pm
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fakesnake wrote:
Hi, No offence but you seem to know very little about water cooling, so may I ask why you want it.
To run cooler, for overclocking or just to look "cool" knowing your needs would give people a better idea on what kit is the best for your rig.


Correct i know barley anything about watercooling... But in a way i know alot about overclocking and thats why its time to go water cooled... :roll:

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Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:20 pm
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Brad wrote:
fakesnake wrote:
Hi, No offence but you seem to know very little about water cooling, so may I ask why you want it.
To run cooler, for overclocking or just to look "cool" knowing your needs would give people a better idea on what kit is the best for your rig.


Correct i know barley anything about watercooling... But in a way i know alot about overclocking and thats why its time to go water cooled... :roll:

I cba to read 3 pages of this thread, but what is your reason for going to water cooling?

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Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:39 pm
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Brad wrote:

Correct i know barley anything about watercooling... But in a way i know alot about overclocking and thats why its time to go water cooled... :roll:


So is the slight bump to 3ghz the best you have got on air. or can you get higher before the temps get to hot? 3.4 is common on air with a good chip. And why the :roll:


Fri Oct 02, 2009 9:13 pm
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fakesnake wrote:
Brad wrote:

Correct i know barley anything about watercooling... But in a way i know alot about overclocking and thats why its time to go water cooled... :roll:


So is the slight bump to 3ghz the best you have got on air. or can you get higher before the temps get to hot? 3.4 is common on air with a good chip. And why the :roll:


It's all about the barley watercooling :roll:

And I doubt you know a lot about watercooling Brad, as with pretty much anything the more you know the more you realise how little you know.

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Fri Oct 02, 2009 9:46 pm
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I honestly don't thik he needs watercooling really.

We (and in we I mean I :P) hit 3.6ghz on a Akasa Nero cooler, and it was perfecly stable. But he wound it back down to stock clocks I think.

I'd be happy with the akasa cooler! I have a crappy Intel reference cooler, with a retrofitted Akasa PWM fan.

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Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:39 pm
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Yes we have hit 3.6GHz not just a cheap 3.0 but the problem is i dont wana seriosly ruin my lifetime of my components.

The main reason i wana go w/c is 1 to reduce the db on my plane that takes off everytime i start my pc up.

2. to feel like yeah i can get 3.6 stable but im only willing to go to 3.0 coz im scared of reducing my C2Q's lifetime... With water cooling i may feel like i can push the 3.6 limit and higher my scardy cat level from 3.0 to about 3.4 3.5 :P

3. I would prefer it if my components wernt sweating their balls off at 3.6 on air... instead i could have it at 3.6 on water and they would just be ncie and warm :mrgreen: :lol:

Do i explain myself enough yet??

Yes i already said before 'I dont know much about watercooling...' but i am always willing to learn, and i have found pretty much everything else out that i wanted so far...

Cheers guys hope this helps ... :)

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Sat Oct 03, 2009 7:58 am
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Fair enough, go for it.
Just a few thoughts from me, 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs makes a great joint without any clips, keeps fitting clean and tidy.
Make sure you dont put any aluminum into the loop keep it all copper, some of the cheaper rads/blocks have aluminum in them.
If you want a near silent rig dont buy cheap fans for rad, and when you remove m/board to fit cpu block tidy up wiring at the same time to maximise air flow in case.

Most important when leak testing dont have any power going to m/board, just the pump connected to the psu with a paper clip plugged into the green and a black socket on m/board main plug.


Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:55 am
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fakesnake wrote:
Fair enough, go for it.
Just a few thoughts from me, 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs makes a great joint without any clips, keeps fitting clean and tidy.
Make sure you dont put any aluminum into the loop keep it all copper, some of the cheaper rads/blocks have aluminum in them.
If you want a near silent rig dont buy cheap fans for rad, and when you remove m/board to fit cpu block tidy up wiring at the same time to maximise air flow in case.

Most important when leak testing dont have any power going to m/board, just the pump connected to the psu with a paper clip plugged into the green and a black socket on m/board main plug.


Wow thanks alot mayte you seem to know your stuff so would u recomend testing overnight outside the case? buy shorting psu out and checking for leaks the next day?

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Asus P5k3 Deluxe - The Expensive 1
4gb DDR3 - The Cheap 1
9600GT 512mb DDR3 - the noisy 1 :D


Sat Oct 03, 2009 9:32 am
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Brad wrote:
fakesnake wrote:
Fair enough, go for it.
Just a few thoughts from me, 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs makes a great joint without any clips, keeps fitting clean and tidy.
Make sure you dont put any aluminum into the loop keep it all copper, some of the cheaper rads/blocks have aluminum in them.
If you want a near silent rig dont buy cheap fans for rad, and when you remove m/board to fit cpu block tidy up wiring at the same time to maximise air flow in case.

Most important when leak testing dont have any power going to m/board, just the pump connected to the psu with a paper clip plugged into the green and a black socket on m/board main plug.


Wow thanks alot mayte you seem to know your stuff so would u recomend testing overnight outside the case? buy shorting psu out and checking for leaks the next day?


YES!!!

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Sat Oct 03, 2009 3:58 pm
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Brad wrote:
fakesnake wrote:
Fair enough, go for it.
Just a few thoughts from me, 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs makes a great joint without any clips, keeps fitting clean and tidy.
Make sure you dont put any aluminum into the loop keep it all copper, some of the cheaper rads/blocks have aluminum in them.
If you want a near silent rig dont buy cheap fans for rad, and when you remove m/board to fit cpu block tidy up wiring at the same time to maximise air flow in case.

Most important when leak testing dont have any power going to m/board, just the pump connected to the psu with a paper clip plugged into the green and a black socket on m/board main plug.


Wow thanks alot mayte you seem to know your stuff so would u recomend testing overnight outside the case? buy shorting psu out and checking for leaks the next day?


fakesnake know's his stuff, he's a phase cooling guy. Hit well over 100% OC's many times.

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jonlumb wrote:
I've only ever done it with a chicken so far, but if required I wouldn't have any problems doing it with other animals at all.


Sat Oct 03, 2009 7:51 pm
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so i hear fakesnake is an overclocking legend. :P

Wounder if he could hit 4.0ghz on my q6600 haha

I had it at 3.6 before :P

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Sun Oct 04, 2009 12:33 pm
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4ghz, thats only ticking over :)
Still got this chip and still runs as new, so would not worry about long term effects of over clocking, not on a Q6600 anyway.
Lots of people have had over 5ghz when on cascade or LN2.
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Sun Oct 04, 2009 1:14 pm
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